How much influence does the textile process of woolen fabric have on the warmth-keeping effect? ​

The warmth-keeping effect of woolen fabric is not determined solely by the wool itself. Differences in textile processes can cause a 30%-50% fluctuation in warmth-keeping performance. Every step from spinning to finishing affects the final ability to keep out the cold.

Spinning process is the foundation. The wool spinning process retains the natural curl of wool (3-4 curls per centimeter), forming more air storage space between fibers, and the warmth-keeping property is more than 25% higher than that of worsted spinning, which is suitable for heavy winter fabrics. The worsted spinning process combs the wool straighter, the fabric has a high density but low fluffiness, and the warmth-keeping property is weaker, which is more suitable for spring and autumn fabrics.

The weaving structure has a significant impact. The plain weave is compact, with high fiber density per unit area, but less air retention and average warmth retention; the twill weave is slightly loose, and the air layer formed by the fiber gap can increase the warmth retention effect by 15%; the rib and double-sided jacquard weave form a three-dimensional structure through interlaced weaving, and the air interception is 40% higher than the plain weave, which is the preferred process for winter wool sweaters.

The finishing process determines the heat lock ability. The shrinking process makes the wool fibers entangled with each other, the fabric thickness increases by 20%-30%, and fine fluff is formed on the surface to reduce heat loss; the plush surface created by the napping process can reduce the thermal conductivity by 30%, but it is easy to pilling. The warmth retention of woolen fabrics that have not been finished will decrease by about 20%.

The fiber blending ratio needs to be scientifically formulated. Pure woolen fabrics have good warmth retention but are easy to shrink. Adding 10%-20% acrylic can enhance the fluffiness and improve warmth retention by 10%. Although elastic woolen fabrics mixed with 5%-10% spandex have enhanced tensile properties, excessive stretching will destroy the fiber gaps and may reduce warmth retention by 5%-8%.

The choice of process needs to be combined with the usage scenario. In the cold northern regions, woolen fabrics with coarse spinning + double-sided jacquard + shrinking process are suitable; in the cold and humid southern environment, the focus can be on worsted spinning + twill process, which takes into account warmth retention and breathability. Only by understanding the impact of the process on warmth retention can we choose wool products that are truly suitable for our needs and avoid the purchase misunderstanding of "only looking at the wool content and ignoring the process details".